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COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT. 



MAKING THE GROUNDS 
ATTRACTIVE WITH SHRUBBERY 



THE 

HOUSE & GARDEN 

MAKING 

BOOKS 

IT is the intention of the publishers to make 
this series of little volumes, of which Making 
the Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery is one, a 
complete library of authoritative and well illus- 
trated handbooks dealing with the activities of 
the home-maker and amateur gardener. Text, 
pictures, and diagrams will, in each respective 
book, aim to make perfectly clear the possibility 
of having, and the means of having, some of 
the more important features of a modern country 
or suburban home. Among the titles already 
issued or planned for early publication are the 
following: Making a Bose Garden; Making a 
Lawn; Making a Garden to Bloom This Tear; 
Making a Fireplace; Making Paths and Drive- 
ways; Making a Poultry House; Making a Gar- 
den with Hotbed and Coldframe; Making Built-in 
Bookcases, Shelves and Seats; Making a Rock 
Garden; Making a Water Garden; Making a 
Perennial Border; Making a Tennis Court; 
Making a Naturalized Bulb Garden; with others 
to be announced later. 



Making the Grounds 
Attractive with Shrubbery 



By GRACE TABOR 

AUTHOR OF 
THE GARDEN PRIMER. THE LANDSCAPE GARDENING BOOK, ETC. 




NEW YORK 

McBRIDE, NAST & COMPANY 

1912 



Copyright, 1912, by 
McBRIDE, NAST & CO. 



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Published April, 1912 



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g-C!.A3l4272 



CONTENTS 

PAGE 

What is Shrubbery For? . . 1 

The Various Kinds op Shrubbery 

Groups 8 

Selecting and Grouping . . .16 

Planting and General Care . . 24 

Twenty Shrubs for General 
Effect 33 

Ten Shrubs Furnishing All- 
Summer Bloom .... 35 

Planting for Winter Beauty . 37 



Comparative Lists of Shrubs: 
Blooming in March and April 
Blooming in May 
Blooming in June 
Blooming in July 
Blooming in August . 
Blooming in September 
Evergreen Shrubs 



39 
41 
44 
48 
50 
51 
52 



THE ILLUSTRATIONS 



An Example of how Shrubbery 
Should Blend into an Easy, Flow- 
ing Line in Plan and Elevation 

Frontispiece 



PAGE 

Bed Planting of Flowering Shrubs 
as Distinguished from Shrubbery 12 



A Planting of Many Varieties in 
a Compact Mass . . . .18 

Deutzia gracilis as a Specimen . 26 

Our Common Elder . . . .32 

A Specimen of Hydrangea panicu- 

LATA 38 



A Neglected Lilac . . . .44 



i/ 



A Planting of Small Evergreens 
Along the Edge of a Drive . 50 



Making the Grounds Attractive 
with Shrubbery 

WHAT IS SHRUBBERY FOR? 

PERHAPS we do not always realize 
that shrubbery has a purpose in 
every landscape scheme quite apart from 
the constant purpose of providing orna- 
ment, but it is true that it has. Indeed, it 
has more than one — or, perhaps, it is 
better to say that it has a threefold pur- 
pose. We plant shrubs (1) to mark 
boundaries, (2) to afford screens when 
there is something to be hidden, and (8) 
as a means of transition to heavier growth, 
in addition to planting them just for 
themselves — just so that we may enjoy 
their bloom and greenness, and whatever 
attributes they may possess. But as 
screens and " transitions " are only an- 
other form of boundaries, the four reasons 
for shrubbery groups resolve themselves 



2 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

into actually two — the provision of bloom, 
and the marking of boundaries. 

This purpose of a group is the first 
thing to consider. Next to this — almost 
a part of it, indeed — is the " face " of the 
group. This is determined by the point or 
points from which it is to be seen, and some 
groups must, of course, be two-faced. 
Then come the seasonal divisions of the 
year, which may or may not have an im- 
portant bearing on the problem, according 
to the circumstances of the home and the 
habits of the occupant. Thus there are 
three factors entering into the formation 
of every group. 

The purpose is predetermined, in a way, 
automatically. A group is needed here 
for a screen, there to define the limits of a 
lawn, somewhere else just because from a 
certain point it will be pleasing to look 
out upon a mass of flowers ; thus the loca- 
tion decides its purpose, of course. And 
equalW of course it decides which direc- 
tion or directions the group must face. 
In the case of boundaries or screens which 
are to be seen from both sides, there must 
be two faces — which means that the tall- 



What is Shrubbery For? 3 

growing specimens must occupy the middle 
ground rather than a " back " ground ; 
and that from these the planting must 
lead down in either direction. Please do 
not understand from this about the plant- 
ing leading down, however, that I am aim- 



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1 Forsythia Fortunei 

2 Azalea calendulacce 

3 Spircea Van Houttei 



4 Diervillafloribunda 

5 Clethra alnifolia 

6 Hibiscus Syriacus 



A screen or border of six varieties, planned to be 
seen from both sides 



ing at a graded bank of shrubbery, ex- 
tending from high at back to low in front, 
in an even slope. This would be dreadful. 
Only in a general way should a group be 
graded ; naturally the taller things should 
be back of low ones, for if they were in 
front of them there would be small chance 



4 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 



for them. But the " grade " should be in- 
terrupted frequently by allowing some of 
the tall shrubs to come into the fore- 
ground, shoulder to shoulder with the low 
Study Nature's growth and the 



ones. 



boundaries along old fences and roadsides 



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A screen or border of the same six varieties, designed 
to be seen from the front side only 



in the country; this is the effect to be 
aimed at. 

The line along which lawn dies under, or 
against, shrubbery should always be 
natural, flowing, and pleasantly irregular 
— but the greatest amount of care is neces- 
sary in order to have it so. I do not be- 
lieve that one gardener in fifty can get 
the effect ; for " irregularity " to them is 
always apparently a zigzag back and 



What is Shrubbery For? 5 

forth, carried out with scrupulous care; 
and, of course, this results in the most ab- 
surd sort of labored regularity. 

I know of nothing that expresses the ef- 
fect more perfectly than the meeting of sea 
and land, taking lawn for sea and shrub- 
bery for land. Here and there the latter 
slopes down to the very water's edge ; here 
and there again it rises in steep and rugged 
promontories ; and once in a while a rock 
or a group of rocks " falls off," so to 
speak, from the mainland, and lies sep- 
arated from it by a bit of water. This is 
exactly what should be done with the 
shrubs ; here and there a specimen may 
stand apart from the mass a little, but not 
so far away as to seem actually by itself. 

While the ideal planting arrangement is 
perfect at all seasons of the year, giving in 
winter as well as summer a beautiful out- 
door picture, it is always possible to lay 
the emphasis upon a particular season, if 
a place is to be used only during that 
season, without impairing this ideal. The 
grounds which surround a winter home 
should be dominated by winter planting, 
which means that a choice of shrubbery 



6 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

should be made that will produce a sense of 
luxury and warmth during the bleakest 
winter weather. On the other hand, the 
summer residence should be in a setting of 
all flowers and light and shade, and it may 
therefore forego the things that are espe- 
cially for winter effect, in order to have 
more of those which will provide an 
abundance of flowers. The planting of 
the all-the-year-around home must, of 
course, consider each season with equal 
care, providing the most that is possible 
for each, without robbing the other. 

It is an entirely new idea to many, I 
find, the deliberate planning for winter 
aspect in the garden ; but it is of the great- 
est importance, and the possibilities are 
unsuspected until one begins to search for 
them. Not alone evergreens, but brilliant 
berries, and vivid patches of color against 
winter's gray, formed by masses of shrubs 
that are clothed in bright bark, are a part 
of the material available for winter planta- 
tions. And what a haven for winter birds 
is such a garden! 

The size of a place has nothing to do 
with the carrying out of the season motifs, 



What is Shrubbery For? 7 

for each may be accomplished within a 
very limited space, or may be expanded to 
include the wide area of a great estate. 
The shrubbery group, planned for either, 
is the unit; it is simply a case of using it 
alone, if alone it will occupy all the space 
available, or of multiplying it any num- 
ber of times, to build up a planting as 
large as circumstances demand. 

The most important thing in the begin- 
ning, therefore, is to get the right unit, 
whatever the size of a place — and then to 
get the unit right. Where is the group to 
go? What is it for? These are easily 
answered. Then — is one season to dom- 
inate? And which one? The answer to 
these is what settles the selection of vari- 
eties. 



THE VARIOUS KINDS OF SHRUB- 
BERY GROUPS 

A BOUNDARY planting may be also 
a screen, a means of transition, or a 
mass of flowers. But there are varying 
forms of boundary plantings. The long 
straight border affords one, the space 
within a corner another, the curve of a 
drive or walk another^— two, in fact, one 
on the inner side and one on the outer — 
the outer corner of a building another; 
and of all these, only the latter is confined 
to one " face," although shrubbery used as 
a transition usually has but one. All of 
the others may be seen from within or with- 
out, or both. 

The long straight border is straight on 
one side only, the actual lay-out of the 
shrubbery upon the ground showing the 
inner side always having the bays and 
promontories previously mentioned. And 
ordinarily such a border is arranged to 
frame and face a lawn, and to be seen from 
8 



Various Kinds of Shrubbery Groups 9 

the lawn only; consequently the very tall 
and rank-growing shrubs occupy the 
straight line at the back — are planted 
along or just inside the actual boundary 
line — while the remainder of the group are 
disposed in front of these, irregularly, 
after the manner shown in the diagram. 
Where such a border must be viewed from 
both sides, the start for it must be made 
with the tall things in the middle, using the 
others irregularly on either side. In other 
words, whatever form of group it is that 
you are planning, begin with the biggest 
shrubs — the ones against which the others 
are to be disposed — and place them first. 
Then work out from them. Never work 
from the front line of the border back, and 
never work along the forward line at all: 
work from the back towards the front, and 
then the groups will have a pleasing fore- 
ground line, broken and natural. 

The two diagrams representing the 
right and wrong way are recommended for 
study. Nothing but hard and artificial 
results will ever be obtained by trying to 
work out a group in the manner shown in 
the first, although this is much the easier 



io Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

and quicker way to do it, and the way it is 
done very often by some who should know 
better, I am afraid. 



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° o f V-o--^' V-°' 

Improperly worked, from front to back. Note the 
hard fore line and equal distance between foremost 
shrubs 



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Properly worked, from back edge forward. The 
shrubs along the fore line are placed with a 
natural effect 



I should not think of saying a word 
against running a walk along the curves in 
front of a boundary planting if I had not 
known some one who did just this thing. 
It is a dreadful piece of work, and I am 
sure not many could think of anything 



Various Kinds of Shrubbery Groups 1 1 

quite so absurd, but " what man has done, 
man may do," so I feel bound to mention 
it. If a walk around a lawn or along a 
shrubbery boundary or screen is desired 
for any reason, have it by all means. But 
let it run in a broad curve, here behind, 
and there before, the shrubs ; never at- 
tempt to follow the ins and outs of the 
fore line of the planting with it. This 
walk that I speak of actually does this, 
and when its owner takes the air and 
saunters along it, the observer, who was 
not informed, would suppose him to be 
some sort of madman, engaged in the Tan- 
talus task of trying to get behind himself. 
It makes me quite giddy to watch him, so 
I do not; I have seen enough, however, to 
know that he sticks to the silly little path, 
with its ridiculous twistings and turnings, 
faithfully; and some day I expect to hear 
of his getting so tangled up with himself 
that he will never know again which is his 
substance and which is his shadow. 

The matter of the fore line of shrub- 
bery is one which it seems difficult for peo- 
ple to let alone. Most gardeners — the 
professional kind, I mean — will insist upon 



12 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

trimming the turf off sharply at an even 
distance from the foremost shrubs, all the 
way along, thus giving an effect very much 
like a flower border or bed — a trim, neat, 
and orderly preciseness which is about as 
far from being associated with shrubbery 
naturally as anything can be. Plant the 
shrubbery group, sow grass seed on the 
lawn if necessary, and among the shrubs 
if there is plenty — certainly away into the 
group on every side — and then let it all 
alone. As they grow they will kill off the 
grass that is too close, and gradually there 
will come to be a natural thinning of grass 
under their outer branches that will lead 
into bare earth further on, under their 
densest shade. This is exactly what 
should be, and it can do itself a hun- 
dred per cent, better than any one can 
do it. 

In the treatment of a screen plantation 
it is sometimes necessary to have one side 
— usually the rear — very straight, even 
sheared. The use of a shrub that stands 
shearing well, along that side, is the ob- 
vious requirement. Nothing is better in 
such a position than the California privet, 



Various Kinds of Shrubbery Groups 13 

and nothing that can be used for a screen, 
by the way, is more rapid-growing. 

Shrubbery planting within the angle 



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1 Forsythia Fortunei 

2 Azalea calendulacce 

3 Azalea Vaseyi 

4 Spirwa Van Houttei 

5 Diervilla floribunda 

6 Azalea arborescens 

7 Clethra alnifolia 

8 Tamarix Oallica Indica 

9 Hibiscus Syriacus 

10 Caryopteris mastacanthus 



Either side of this group may be extended by "re- 
peating the pattern " from different points. This 
avoids actual repetition. Take a-b-c for the first, 
then b-c for the next, then take a-b for the next 
section; then repeat the whole, then b-c, and so 
on, ad lib. 



where boundaries come together at a cor- 
ner should usually be started at the cor- 
ner and worked both ways, as well as for- 
ward to the fore line. It blends into and 



14 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

becomes a straight border, of course, be- 
fore going very far either way. 

Walks and driveways afford, perhaps, 
the greatest variation upon a single motif, 




1 Forsythia Fortunei 3 Deutzia Lemoinei 

2 tipircea arguta 4 Berberis vulgaris 

5 Diervilla Jloribunda 

Planting at an entrance walk or drive, designed with 
the idea that the groups are to be seen principally 
from the same. Notice how the group of a single 
variety blends into the other groups rather than 
being set distinctly apart 



and every place offers conditions pecul- 
iarly its own in connection with these. 
Sometimes it is desirable to hide them 
completely for a space, or even for all their 



Various Kinds of Shrubbery Groups 15 

way, in which case a shrubbery mass may 
be needed on either side, giving the effect 
of an extensive thicket wherein road or 
walk is unsuspected. Generally speaking, 
the " bays " of walks or drives should be 
planted, but on drives such planting 
should usually be kept low enough to see 
over, for some distance at least, else it be- 
comes a source of danger. The outer side 
of such curves require groups of different 
form, if they are planted at all, and these 
too must be governed by the circumstance 
of each individual case. The lay of the 
land and the plan of the place as a whole 
enter into the matter of planting along the 
paths and roadways rather more than they 
do into any other planting. 

Where shrubbery is used as a means of 
transition to heavier growth, it must 
ordinarily be of rather wild and informal 
character. The native cornels, vibur- 
nums, sumachs, and elder are unexcelled 
for this purpose, leading, as they will, back 
into the shade of heavy growth, and be- 
coming undergrowth. 



SELECTING AND GROUPING 

WHATEVER a group of shrubs may 
be for, the individual shrubs com- 
posing it must be selected with regard to 
certain fixed requirements. These are: 
their height, their habit, the time and color 
of their bloom, and the color of their 
fruits, if they bear ornamental fruits. The 
varying shades of green that the foliage 
of different kinds shows do not require 
special consideration, for they will blend 
and harmonize without question. But be 
sure that you stick to the shrubs which 
have green foliage — foliage that is a good 
normal, natural color. Variegations are 
abominations, without beauty or any other 
merit to recommend them — decadents, un- 
fit for the associations of the garden. 

Shrubs range in height from the dwarf 
Daphne, or the still more dwarf Hyperi- 
cum, to the twenty or twenty-five-foot 
Amelanchier. Their habit — that is, their 
manner of growth — varies almost as much 
16 



Selecting and Grouping 17 

as the habit of men ; and although we de- 
scribe them ordinarily as erect, drooping, 
or prostrate, there are many degrees in 
each of these general characterizations, 
which we grow to know only by growing 
familiar with the shrubs. 

The Comparative List given includes the 
best shrubs of common culture ; a selection 
from this of twenty varieties will provide 
the choicest abundance of flowers in sum- 
mer and berries in winter ; half that many, 
or even a half dozen shrubs, will insure 
bloom all the season. So not even the tini- 
est dooryard need lack. The temptation 
to have more varieties, however, than good 
taste and good judgment in gardening will 
allow, is so constant that it must be con- 
stantly met with the warning, " few kinds 
— many of each; not many kinds — a few 
of each." In a plantation requiring fifty 
shrubs it is far better to have only six 
varieties than to have sixteen — though, 
perhaps, we may stretch the six out to 
eight or nine, in order to include the very 
finest, and to cover the entire period of 
six months. Keep to the six for the 
masses, however, perhaps adding some- 



1 8 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

thing here and there — one or two against 
the mass or detached from it a little — of 
a species that is especially valuable and 
distinctive. 

The massing of shrubs seems a stum- 
bling-block to nine out of ten, in spite of 
the often reiterated direction to plant close 
in the group. Doubtless we shall be a full 
generation in getting away from the idea 
that each shrub must be treated as an in- 
dividual — just as we have been in getting 
away from some other of our false tradi- 
tions — and that it is beautiful only when 
so treated. I suppose it does seems an 
extravagance at first, where it has not 
been customary — this idea of taking per- 
fectly good bushes and setting them in 
colonies where no one can tell how many 
there are; where each must be imposed 
upon by its neighbor to a certain degree, 
and where none can spread itself in the 
undisputed possession of undivided atten- 
tion. What a waste of material ! That 
is the protest which involuntarily rises 
within us — not the protest of thrift alone, 
but a protest which comes from what some 
have been unkind enough to call a national 



Selecting and Grouping 19 

characteristic, namely the instinct to " put 
up a front." It seems perfectly right to 
have a great many shrubs — we expect 
everything in lavish quantities — but it does 
not seem as if it were getting the most 
out of them to use them in such a fashion. 
Less than the most out of each one of 
them seems foolish — seems prodigality hid- 
den under a bushel. 

But shrubs must never be considered as 
individuals, from the point of view which 
the designer of a garden should take. 
They, collectively, are one kind of garden 
material, just as trees are one kind and 
flowers another ; and they can never be re- 
garded in any other way, once their pur- 
pose is thoroughly understood. That 
once in a while a specimen is permissible, 
and even desirable, is true, but this is the 
exception and not the rule. 

From two to four feet apart is as far 
as they should ever go, in the main body 
of a mass. Some parts of the fore line it 
is sometimes well to make more open, 
showing a " dwindling off," as it were, in 
places — but these must not be too fre- 
quent. The effect aimed at in a mass is 



20 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

of one great thicket of interlacing boughs, 
strewn with blossoms here and there, vary- 
ing in height, and green, and character of 
foliage, but uninterrupted and impene- 
trable. And if it were possible to get un- 
derneath the branches, and in onto the 
ground about the bushes, it would seem 
like a miniature forest, with overarching 
green above and a mulch of old leaves un- 
derfoot, lying on the bare earth. For no 
grass or weeds can grow underneath shrub- 
bery, when it is properly massed. 

For best results it is not well to plant 
with shrubs that are very large ; these will 
not " mass " satisfactorily. A certain 
amount of every kind of garden work has 
to be left to the growth of the things them- 
selves — man can plan, but Nature must do 
— and this is particularly true of every- 
thing based on Nature's own plan or 
scheme, as this use of shrubs is. Small 
specimens, about one-third to one-half 
grown, planted at the proper distances, 
grow together as they grow large, and 
mass themselves. Branches interarch and 
mingle as they reach out at their ends, and 
the whole group takes on the natural 



Selecting and Grouping 21 

thicket effect which it would never acquire 
if started with large shrubs whose forms 
were well established, and which could not, 
therefore, intermingle one with another. 
Such plants, set as close as a group should 
be, would crowd; and none would do as 
well after planting as it should. The small 
plants, grown up together, never are con- 
scious of being crowded; and the upward 
tendency of leaf and branch, towards the 
light and air, develops each to fill just the 
place that it should fill, among the others. 

A start with small shrubs sometimes 
seems a sore trial to one's patience; but 
shrubbery grows very fast, after all, and 
a planting set one spring will make a very 
creditable showing the second summer fol- 
lowing, while in three years it will have 
quite developed the desired effect. Subse- 
quently it will grow larger and become 
more dense, of course; but the mass will 
have taken on its definite character in this 
time. 

The color of the flowers which are pro- 
duced at the same season is, of course, im- 
portant, and must be considered in making 
up a group. But among shrubbery there 



22 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

is much white, and there will always be 
large masses of the green of those shrubs 
which are not in flower. So color com- 
binations that are unsatisfactory are not 
likely to occur, with ordinary care. 
Where the culture of some special things, 
like rhododendrons or azaleas, is under- 
taken, this does not, of course, hold good ; 
but for all ordinary shrubbery groups and 
borders, it does. 

The groups of a single kind within the 
larger mass are too frequently stopped 
against the group adjoining, instead of 
each being carried naturally into the other. 
This latter fashion of ending them 
abruptly is as hard and artificial as the 
effect resulting from working back from 
the fore line in planting, mentioned earlier ; 
yet there is at least one great park where 
it is the rule followed. Keep in mind that 
shrubs are exactly like everything else that 
grows ; they scatter. A clump of elder- 
berry may end, practically, at a mass of 
sumachs — but there will be two or three 
of the latter amongst the former, and 
from one to several of the elderberry 
bushes over in the sumach reservation, 



Selecting and Grouping 23 

spotted about — the most of them nearest 
the mass of their own kind, perhaps, but a 
few well along in the sumach's midst. 
Plant always for this effect. 

Golf balls and marbles, mixed and flung 
along the ground from a basket, may help 
in securing it; the spot where each lies 
being taken as the location of the shrub 
that it has been determined each should 
represent. This is simply an adaptation 
of the scheme advised for naturalizing 
bulbs, and though it may not be effective 
always on the first attempt, owing to there 
being only a few of each kind of ball, re- 
peated trials will bring the right " lay " 
very shortly — and it does away with the 
chance or danger of a stiff and labored 
transition between the two kinds of shrub. 
Each is to be planted, of course, where the 
ball representing its kind rests. If the 
balls lie too near, try again — or keep the 
relative positions, but move them farther 
from each other. 



PLANTING AND GENERAL CARE 

WHETHER spring or fall is the bet- 
ter planting-time is a question that 
each spring or fall, not to say every local- 
ity and each shrub, must answer. Theo- 
retically, fall should be the better time; 
but actually spring is quite as well, some- 
times. It depends on the kind of spring 
and the kind of plant. Some things will 
not do well at all planted in the autumn, 
but these are few. Rhododendrons and 
all their family, and broad-leaved ever- 
greens generally, are the notable excep- 
tions, along with some Roses. Aside from 
these there is practically nothing I would 
not rather plant in the fall, all other 
things being equal ; but this is not to say 
that I should not plant in spring if it were 
more convenient, or if, for any reason, I 
wanted to. 

The great essential is to do the work 

well, whatever time of year it is done. The 

life processes of a shrub are, of course, 

completely suspended while it is out of the 

24 



Planting and General Care 25 

ground; and practically suspended until 
every part is restored to its original con- 
tact with the earth. When we speak of it 
as becoming " established," it means that 
these life processes have been resumed, 
through the successful restoration to all 
its roots of this earth contact. There 
must be no tiny crevice here or there, 
where a little group of fine roots are left 
to hunger until they starve to death. 
These fine roots are the most important, 
and every individual one of them ought to 
be completely surrounded with earth, ex- 
actly as it was when the plant stood in its 
established position. Every one of these 
rootlets there had gone its own way out 
into the soil, burrowing, pushing, reaching 
for the precious food, crossing its fellows 
perhaps, but always going on past them, 
its independent way. Every one must go 
on doing this, or die. 

It is obviously impossible to return 
earth to each one of the countless minute 
fibers that make up a root system, how- 
ever ; but it is possible to do a great deal 
better in this respect than it may seem at 
first thought, and than is done usually. For 



26 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

one thing, the soil should not be too moist. 
A dry earth is better to plant in than a 
wet one. Wet, or even very moist, soil 
cakes, and these cakes or chunks tear away 
the tender roots of masses, as they fall 
against them. Then, too, when the earth 
particles are confined in such chunks, they 
cannot sift in around and under the root 
fibers at all, consequently there are prac- 
tically none of these tiny, important lit- 
tle plant mouths brought in contact with 
the earth. Only the larger roots are 
touched by it, and these are not the 
feeders. 

The roots of shrubs that come packed 
as they must be packed in order to bear 
shipping, are usually very much con- 
stricted, just as the branches are. Wet- 
ting them will help restore them to their 
normal positions, but even when they are 
wet, it is necessary to pull them out care- 
fully and coax them into their natural 
shape. Then the holes for them should 
be dug large enough around to take them 
in as they came out, and deep enough to 
have them as far under the surface as they 
were originally — and no farther. Some 




Deutzia gracilis, one of the most attractive flowering 
shrubs, blooms in May and will do well in shade 



Planting and General Care 27 

things are not harmed by deeper planting, 
but most things are; all of the part that 
has been above ground should go on being 
above ground, even to as little as half an 
inch on the stem. 

Ordinary shrubbery will usually do 
well in ordinary soil. Some things have 
their preferences, to be sure, but these are 
not so marked that the plants will suffer 
if they are not indulged. Very heavy, 
soggy soil — the sour kind that is filled with 
angle-worms — it is well to sweeten by the 
application of lime, which lightens it at 
the same time (unless Rhododendrons, 
Laurel or Azaleas are to be planted 
in it). Fertilizer, in the shape of 
well-rotted stable manure, is always in 
order, if one wishes to use it, and it is 
available; but commercial fertilizers are 
not usually necessary, or even desirable. 
Save all the autumn leaves and let them 
disintegrate in a compost heap ; they are 
Nature's own fertilizer. Dress the earth 
around shrubs with them every fall, and do 
not rake them off and " clean up " in the 
spring. Nothing is better for the soil 
than the rich humus which they furnish. 



28 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

In using manure at the time of plant- 
ing, mix it with the earth, and fill in the 
bottom of the holes to a depth of six 
inches with the mixture. (Dig them six 
inches deeper than needed, in the first 
place.) Then cover this filling with a 
thin layer of earth alone, sprinkled on; 
onto this set the shrub. The manure will 
not harm the roots of everything by com- 
ing in direct contact with them, but it will 
do injury to some if it touches them, so 
it is well to be on the safe side. The plant 
gets the nourishment just the same, even 
when the roots do not actually touch it. 
And it is fatal to evergreens, burning them 
and doing irreparable injury if it touches 
their roots. Make the earth layer which 
covers the layer of manure under them an 
inch deep at least. 

In planting in earth that is as dry as it 
ought to be in order to insure the success 
of the work, each shrub must have from 
a quarter to a half a pailful of water 
poured gently into the hole, when the lat- 
ter is two-thirds filled. It may even be 
more nearly full than this, the object being 
to have merely enough of a depression to 



Planting and General Care 29 

receive the water, which should sink into 
the earth slowly. This gradual percola- 
tion carries earth particles against the 
rootlets and into every remote crevice that 
even the most careful tamping with a 
round-end pole is likely to miss ; thus it 
more nearly than anything else restores 
them to their original condition. When 
the water has completely sunk into the 
ground and disappeared, fill the depression 
to a little more than level full. 

All broken or bruised roots must be cut 
away before a shrub is planted, and the 
branches should be cut back as much in 
proportion. That is, if one-quarter of 
the root system is sacrificed, one-quarter 
of the top should keep it company. This 
holds the balance between roots and top 
that is so essential. 

Evergreens are always dug and shipped 
with a ball of earth, carefully wrapped in 
burlap, around their roots. This must 
go into a hole exactly as deep and a trifle 
larger in diameter than it, and be packed 
tightly by filling in around it. Do not 
disturb it in doing this, however, nor break 
it apart, if it is possible to avoid doing 



30 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

so. Pour water into the ring depression 
around it, where the filling-in is done, 
when this is filled three-quarters full, and 
let it settle. When it has done so and 
none at all remains in sight, put on the 
rest of the earth, and then sprinkle a 
mulch of loose earth, or earth and leaves, 
over the entire area of the roots, to con- 
serve the moisture. This applies to 
rhododendrons and their kind as well as to 
conifers, for these come with the earth 
ball. 

All shrubbery planted in the fall must be 
mulched carefully the first winter. After 
that it will not require it, for a year's 
growth will have established it securely. 
The mulch is not to keep the ground from 
freezing, however, but to keep it from 
thawing, once it has frozen — to keep the 
newly planted things from being loosened 
and "heaved" under alternate freezing and 
thawing. Wait until it freezes hard be- 
fore applying the mulch ; then apply it at 
once, leaves and litter, to a depth of six 
or eight inches over the entire area of the 
plants' roots, and up to the stems — but 
not up onto the stems. Remove it as soon 



Planting and General Care 31 

as the frost is thoroughly out of the 
ground in the spring. 

The matter of pruning among shrubs 
resolves itself into simply cutting away 
dead wood each year — if there is any. 
Further than this they should never be 
touched, ordinarily, for the aim with 
groups always being the thicket or inter- 
laced mass, and with specimens, the shrub's 
natural form, it follows that trimming up 
of any kind is to be avoided. Keep shears 
away from them altogether, if you cannot 
be sure that they will be only used, and not 
abused. Once in a great while, with old 
and long established shrubs, it may be 
necessary to thin out — but this seldom has 
to be done. When it must be, choose the 
weakest and oldest inside branches, and 
cut them away at the ground. Remember 
always that taking off the ends of branches 
stimulates growth farther back; removing 
half the length of a branch only thickens 
up the mass ultimately by causing new 
branches to come from the stub left, as 
well as from the roots, perhaps. The only 
way to thin out is to go right down to the 
ground. 



32 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

Spraying is necessary in a region in- 
fested with scale, for scale attacks orna- 
mental plants as well as fruits. Aphids 
are the only other insect likely to bother, 
and these will not colonize on everything. 
When they do appear, treat them with 
strong soapsuds, applied as hot as the 
hands can bear it, with a sprayer, to every 
part of every leaf and branch. Use it 
two successive days, then wait and watch, 
and use it again in a week's time, if any 
are seen. 

Scale must be fought in the winter prin- 
cipally, as it is only when vegetation is 
dormant that solutions strong enough to 
kill the adult insects may be applied. 
Kerosene emulsion is the great scale poi- 
son, and this is usually applied the first 
week in February. It may be used again, 
in weaker solution, as late as April, pro- 
viding buds have not opened. 

For all kinds of fungous diseases, Bor- 
deaux mixture must be used as a pre- 
ventive measure. Nothing will cure the 
plant, nor destroy the symptoms of 
fungous attack, once they are in evidence, 
for fungi get into the plant-tissues just as 



Planting and General Care 33 

disease gets into a man. The prevalence 
of any kind of plant distemper in the 
neighborhood should be the signal for dos- 
ing with Bordeaux, without waiting for the 
trouble to manifest. When it has reached 
the point of doing this, it is too late. 

Both kerosene emulsion and Bordeaux 
may be purchased ready mixed, with di- 
rections for diluting and applying. This 
is probably the better way for the small 
gardener to get them. They are easily 
compounded, however, if one prefers to 
make them, but the formulas are so often 
given that I will not repeat them here. 

Twenty Shrubs for General Effect 

The berried shrubs are winter features; 
only those which hold berries all win- 
ter are mentioned. 

(Blooming in April) 

Daphne Mezereum — Three feet high ; 
lilac flowers. 

Forsythia Fortunei — Eight feet; yellow 
flowers. 



34 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

Cercis Japonica — Twenty feet; rosy- 
pink flowers. 

(Blooming in May) 

Berberis Thunbergii — Four feet ; yellow 
(berries). 

Prunus triloba — Five feet high; pink 
flowers. 

Lonicera Morrowi — Six feet; white 
flowers. 

Spircea Van Houttei — Eight feet ; white. 

Viburnum opulus — Twelve feet ; white 
(berries). 

Syringa vulgaris — Twelve feet; white 
and lilac. 

(Blooming in June) 

Potentilla fruticosa — Three feet; yel- 
low. 

Philadelphus Pekinensis — Five feet ; 
creamy. 

Diervilla floribunda — Eight feet; crim- 
son. 



Planting and General Care 35 

Cornus sanguinea — Twelve feet; white 
(berries). 

Crataegus Crus-galli — Twenty-five feet; 
white. 

(Blooming in July) 

Spircea tomentosa — Four feet; purple- 
pink. 

Hydrangea quercifolia — Six feet ; white. 
Amorpha fruticosa — Ten feet ; blue. 

(Blooming in August) 

Callicarpa Japonica — Four feet; pink. 
Hibiscus Syriacus — Twelve feet; white 
and pinks. 

(Blooming in September) 

Caryopteris mast acanthus — Four feet; 
blue. 



Ten Shrubs Furnishing All-Summer 
Bloom 

(April) 

Forsythia Fortunei — Yellow ; eight feet. 



36 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

(May) 

Azalea calendulacce — Flame; six feet. 
Azalea Vaseyi — Rosy white; seven feet. 
Spircea Van Houttei — White ; eight feet. 

(June) 

Diervilla floribunda — Crimson ; eight 
feet. 

Azalea arborescens — Pink; eight feet. 

(July) 

Clethra alnifolia — White ; six feet. 
Tamarix Gallica, indica — Pink; fifteen 
feet. 

(August) 

Hibiscus Syriacus — White ; pink ; twelve 
feet. 

(September) 

Caryopteris mast acanthus — Blue; four 
feet. 



Planting and General Care 37 
A Planting for Winter Beauty 
(Blooming in April) 

Andromeda floribunda — White ; four 
feet; evergreen. 

Azalea amcena — Claret; five feet; ever- 
green. 

Cornus Mas — Yellow ; twenty feet. 
(Blooming in May) 

Berberis aquifolium — Yellow; four 
feet ; evergreen. 

Berberis Thunbergii — Yellow ; four feet. 

Berberis vulgaris — Yellow; six feet. 

Leucotheo Catesbcei — White; six feet; 
evergreen. 

Lonicera fragrantissima — Cream ; eight 
feet ; half-evergreen. 

Viburnum opulus — White; twelve feet. 

(Blooming in June) 

Kalmia latifolia — Pink; eight feet; 
evergreen. 



38 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

Cornus Amomum — White ; ten feet. 
Cornus sanguined — White ; twelve feet. 
Rhododendron — Pink, white, mauve ; 
eight to thirty-five feet; evergreen. 

(Blooming in July) 
Rhododendron, in certain varieties. 

(Blooming in August) 

Calluna vulgaris — Pink ; two feet ; ever- 
green. 

Also 

Ilex opaca — Twenty feet; red berries; 
evergreen. 

Ilex aquifolium — Twenty feet ; red ber- 
ries ; evergreen. 

Rosa Wichuraiana — Trailing ; red hips. 

Rosa lucida — Six feet ; red hips. 




There is a place, of course, for the specimen shrub 
standing alone, as in the case of this unusually 
large hydrangea 



COMPARATIVE LISTS OF SHRUBS 

Blooming in March and April 
(One to Four Feet High) 

Cydonia Maulei — Quince; orange-scar- 
let ; full sun ; any soil ; three feet. 

Daphne Mezereum — Daphne ; lilac ; 
flowers before leaves ; part shade or full 
sun ; three feet. 

Spircea Thunbergii — Spirea ; white ; 
likes moisture; good anywhere; four feet. 

(Four to Eight Feet High) 

Dirca paliistris — Leatherwood ; yellow- 
ish; flowers before leaves; likes moist 
place ; five feet. 

Cydonia Japonica — Japanese quince ; 
white and scarlets ; any soil ; full sun ; five 
feet. 

39 



40 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

Rhus aromatica — Fragrant sumach ; 
yellow ; dry rocky ground ; spreads ; six 
feet. 

Forsythia Fortunei — Forsythia ; yel- 
low ; flowers before the leaves ; any soil ; 
eight feet. 

Lonicera fragrantissima — Honeysuckle ; 
creamy ; a half evergreen ; eight feet. 



(Eight to Twenty-five Feet High) 

Benzoin odoriferum — Spice bush; yel- 
low; flowers before the leaves; sandy soil; 
twelve feet. 

Amelanchier Botryapium — Juneberry ; 
white ; likes a little shade ; any soil ; twenty 
feet. 

Cornus Mas — Cornelian cherry ; yellow ; 
any soil ; endures shade ; twenty feet. 

Crataegus coccinea — Scarlet thorn ; 
white ; likes heavy soil ; twenty feet. 

Cercis Japonica — Red-bud; deep pink; 
transplant only when very small; twenty 
feet. 



Comparative Lists of Shrubs 41 
Blooming in May 
(One to Four Feet High) 

Deutzia gracilis — Deutzia; white; will 
do well in shade; three feet. 

Deutzia gracilis, rosea — Pinkish-white; 
will do well in shade; three feet. 

Deutzia Lemoinei — White; this is the 
most showy of the three ; three feet. 

Andromeda Mariana — Stagger-bush; 
white ; poisonous to cattle ; four feet. 

Azalea Pontica — Ghent azalea ; brilliant 
yellows ; many hybrids ; four feet. 

Berberis Thunbergii — Japanese bar- 
berry; yellow; endures shade nicely; four 
feet. 

(Four to Eight Feet High) 

Azalea nudiflora — Pinxter flower ; pink- 
ish ; likes moisture ; little shade ; five feet. 

Rhodotypos kerrioides — White kerria; 
blooms at intervals all summer ; five feet. 

Azalea Mollis — Chinese azalea; white, 
red, yellow ; five feet. 



42 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

Prunus triloba — Flowering plum ; pink ; 
flowers just ahead of leaves; five feet. 

Viburnum acerifolium — Maple-leaved 
viburnum ; likes some shade ; white ; five 
feet. 

Ribes aureum — Missouri currant ; yel- 
low ; old-time shrub ; spicy fragrance ; six 
feet. 

Azalea calendulacai — Flame azalea ; 
flame color; six feet. 

Berberis vulgaris — Common barberry ; 
yellow ; red fruits ; six feet. 

Diervilla florida — Weigela; white, rose, 
red ; blooms late in month ; many hybrids ; 
six feet. 

Eleagnus longipes — Silver thorn; yel- 
low-white ; beautiful fruits ; six feet. 

Lonicera Morrowi — Honeysuckle; 
white; red berries follow; six feet. 

Sambucus pubens — Elder ; white ; com- 
bine with S. Canadensis; six feet. 

Spiraea arguta — Spirea; white; finest 
early-flowering; six feet. 

Exochorda grandiflora — Pearl bush ; 
white; foliage poor; plant in rear; six 
feet. 



Comparative Lists of Shrubs 43 

Azalea Vaseyi — Southern azalea; rose 
white; sometimes blooms in April; seven 
feet. 

Spircea Van Houttei — Spirea hybrid; 
white ; finest of all ; eight feet. 



(Eight to Twenty-five Feet High) 

Spiraea prunifolia, fi. pi. — Bridal 
wreath ; white ; well known ; ten feet. 

Cornus paniculata — Cornel; white; has 
white fruits ; endures shade well ; ten feet. 

Halesia tetraptera — Silver bell tree; 
white; likes part shade and shelter; ten 
feet. 

Lonicera Tatarica — Honeysuckle; pink 
or white ; ten feet. 

Lonicera Xylosteum — Fly honeysuckle ; 
white, tinged pink ; ten feet. 

Philadelphus coronarius — Syringa ; 
creamy ; old-time fragrant shrub ; ten feet. 

Pyrus arbutifolia — Chokeberry; white; 
ten feet. 

Staphylea colchica — Bladder nut; yel- 



44 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

lowish white; likes moisture and part 
shade; twelve feet. 

Syringa Chmensis — Chinese lilac ; lilac, 
white ; twelve feet. 

Viburnum opulus — Highbush cran- 
berry ; white ; scarlet fruits ; twelve feet. 

Crataegus Oxyacantha — English haw- 
thorn ; white ; many hybrids ; fifteen feet. 

Syringa vulgaris — Lilac ; white and 
lilac ; white blooms first ; fifteen feet. 

Tamarix Africana — Tamarix ; pink ; 
endures salt air, sandy soil ; fifteen feet. 

Viburnum dentatum — Arrow-wood; 
white; likes rather moist soil; fifteen feet. 

Xanthoceras sorbifolia — Xanthoceras ; 
white; blotched with red and yellow; fif- 
teen feet. 



Blooming in June 

(One to Four Feet High) 

Ceanothus Americana — New Jersey tea ; 
white ; dry soil, sun or shade ; on into July ; 
three feet. 




A typical example of a neglected lilac. Its vi- 
tality is being sapped by the rank growth of 
suckers from the roots 



Comparative Lists of Shrubs 45 

Potentilla fruticosa — Shrubby cinque- 
foil; yellow; wet rocky place; or dry; 
three feet. 

Spiraea callosa — Spirea ; white; blooms 
on into July; four feet. 

(Four to Eight Feet High) 

Philadelphus Pelcinensis — Syringa; 
creamy; many hybrids; five feet. 

Spiraea salicifolia, alba — Meadow- 
sweet ; white ; likes rather moist places ; five 
feet. 

Azalea mscosa — Clammy azalea; rosy 
white ; dry or moist ground ; six feet. 

Calycanthus floridus — Sweet shrub ; red 
brown ; grown for its fragrance ; six feet. 

Deutzia scabra, crenata — Deutzia ; 
white; does well in shade; six feet. 

Diervilla florida, Candida — Weigela ; 
white; six feet. 

Azalea arborescens — Fragrant azalea; 
rosy white ; eight feet. 

Diervilla floribunda — Bright crimson ; 
all Diervillas are spreading shrubs ; eight 
feet. 



4.6 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

Hydrangea arborescens — Hydrangea ; 
white ; this endures shade well ; eight feet. 

Syringa villosa — Lilac ; pinkish lilac ; 
eight feet. 



(Eight to Twenty-five Feet High) 

Spiraea argentea — Spirea ; white ; useful 
in natural plantings ; on into August ; ten 
feet. 

Ligustrum Ibota — Privet ; white ; 
blooms on into July ; ten feet. 

Sambucus Canadensis — Elder ; white ; 
blooms as fruits of S. pubeus ripen; ten 
feet. 

Spircea opulifolia — Ninebark ; white ; 
strong growing and broad; ten feet 
(known also as opulaster). 

Cornus paniculata — Panicled cornel ; 
white ; white fruits ; twelve feet. 

Cornus sanguinea — Red osier; white; 
fruits black; twelve feet. 

Eleagnus umbellata — Oleaster ; yellow- 
ish white ; twelve feet. 



Comparative Lists of Shrubs 47 

Philadelphus Lemoinei — Syringa; 
cream white ; twelve feet. 

Syringa Josikcea — Lilac; violet; twelve 
feet. 

Colutea arborescens — Bladder senna ; 
yellow ; inflated seed pods ; fifteen feet. 

Ligustrum vulgare — Privet; white; 
stands any amount of neglect ; shade or 
sun ; fifteen feet. 

Photinia villosa — Photinia; white; bril- 
liant red fruits ; good naturalized ; fifteen 
feet. 

Rhamnus cathartica — Buckthorn; 
inconspicuous ; fifteen feet. 

Rhamnus Frangula — Buckthorn ; green- 
ish; fruits from July on; fifteen feet. 

Tamarix Gallica — Tamarix ; pinkish 
white ; fifteen feet. 

Viburnum molle — Viburnum ; white ; 
likes moist places ; fifteen feet. 

Rhamnus Carolina — Indian cherry ; 
greenish; endures shade nicely; twenty 
feet. 

Viburnum Lantana — Wayfaring tree ; 
white; dry places and limestone soil; 
twenty feet. 



48 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

Chionanthus Virginica — Fringe tree ; 
white; shrubby or tree-like; twenty-five 
feet. 

Cratcegus cordata — Washington thorn; 
white ; twenty-five feet. 

Cratcegus Crus-galli — Cockspur thorn; 
white ; twenty-five feet. 

Syringa Japonica — Japanese lilac ; yel- 
lowish white ; blooms on into July ; twenty- 
five feet ; tree-like. 

Styrax Japonica — Storax ; white ; 
blooms on into July; twenty-five feet. 



Blooming in July 
(One to Four Feet High) 

Hypericum Moserianum — St. John's 
wort ; yellow ; blooms all summer ; shade ; 
two feet. 

Spiraea tomentosa — Hardhack ; purplish 
pink ; blooms on all summer ; four feet. 

Itea Virginica — Virginian willow ; white ; 
likes low wet places, sun or shade ; four 
feet. 



Comparative Lists of Shrubs 49 
(Four to Eight Feet High) 

Diervilla sessilifolia — Weigela; yellow; 
five feet. 

Aesculus parviflora — Dwarf horse- 
chestnut ; white ; five feet. 

Tamarix Odessana — Tamarix ; pink ; 
blooms on to September ; six feet. 

Ligustrum Ibota, Regelianum — Privet; 
white ; wide branching, drooping ; six feet. 

Hydrangea quercifolia — Oak-leaved 
hydrangea ; white ; six feet. 

Spircea Billardii — Spirea; pink; eight 
feet. 

Lespedeza bicolor — Bush clover; 
purple ; eight feet. 

Clethra alnifolia — Sweet pepper bush; 
white ; does well in shade ; on into Septem- 
ber; six feet. 



(Eight to Twenty-five Feet High) 

Amorpha fruticosa — False indigo ; 
violet-blue; ten feet. 



50 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

Cornus Amomum — Silky cornel; white; 
blue fruit; endures shade; ten feet. 

Hydrangea paniculata grandiflora — 
Great-panicled hydrangea; white; into 
September; ten feet. 

Cephalanthus occidentalis — Button 
bush; white; moist, swampy places; also 
sand ; twelve feet. 

Hibiscus Syriacus — Rose of Sharon; 
white, pinks ; into September ; twelve feet. 

Rhus cotinus — Smoke tree; brown pur- 
ple ; twelve feet. 

Tamarix Gallica, indica — Tamarix ; 
pink ; blooms on to August ; fifteen feet. 



Blooming in August 
(One to Four Feet High) 

Callicarpa purpurea — Beauty fruit ; 
pink ; lilac-purple berries ; three feet. 

Callicarpa Japonica — Whitish pink ; 
more showy than above ; four feet. 



Comparative Lists of Shrubs 5 1 
(Above Four Feet High) 

Those shrubs which carry over from 
July, of which there are several. 

Blooming in September 
(One to Four Feet High) 

Caryopteris mast acanthus — Blue spirea ; 
blue ; springs from roots each spring ; four 
feet. 

Lespedeza Sieboldii — Bush clover; rose 
purple ; four feet. 

Lespedeza Japonica — White; four feet. 

(Eight to Twenty-five Feet High) 

Baccharis halimifolia — Groundsel; yel- 
lowish; dry rocky places or seashore; ten 
feet. 

Hamamelis Virginiana — Witch hazel ; 
yellow; likes moisture and part shade; 
twenty feet. 



52 Grounds Attractive with Shrubbery 

EVERGREEN SHRUBS 

(One to Four Feet High) 

Calluna vulgaris — Heather; pink; 
August, September; sun or shade; sandy 
banks ; two feet. 

Andromeda floribunda — Andromeda ; 
white ; May or earlier ; four feet. 

Berberis Aquifolium — Holly-leaved bar- 
berry ; yellow; May; part shade; four 
feet. 

(Four to Eight Feet High) 

Azalea amosna — Azalea; claret pink; 
April, May ; five feet. 

Leucothoe Catesbcei — Drooping An- 
dromeda ; April, May ; white ; part shade ; 
six feet. 

Kalmia latifolia — Laurel; pink; part 
shade ; soil must be free from lime ; June ; 
eight feet. 



Comparative Lists of Shrubs 53 
(Eight Feet and up) 

Rhododendron — White, pinks, reds, in 
many shades ; part shade ; soil must be free 
from lime; June mostly; some low-grow- 
ing; some up to twenty-five feet. 

Ilex opaca — Holly ; inconspicuous flow- 
ers ; red berries ; dry sunny barrens ; 
twenty feet north; tree in the south; get 
staminate as well as fruiting tree. 

Ilex Aquifolium — English holly; alwa}^s 
plant staminate trees as well as pistillate 
or the latter will not produce fruit ; twenty 
feet. 

Buxus sernpervirens — Boxwood ; planted 
for foliage ; never to more than six or eight 
feet ordinarily ; dwarf form six inches. 



MAY 16 1912 



